Cables are gorgeous. We like them because they add a fantastic texture to our projects. But if we could make the cables even more textured, that would bring them to a whole new level of gorgeousness.
A simple and ingeniously clever High-Relief Cables method developed by Assia Brill allows us to do just that. Assia kindly allowed me to share this method with you, my friends, in this detailed step-by-step tutorial.
With just a small adjustment, we can make any cable more prominent. These cables stand out even when we place them on a stockinette background and make them with a variegated yarn.
They stay strong after washing, and they are not afraid of blocking.
These are super cables that look terrific on heavily cabled hats, scarves, cowls, and Aran sweaters, as well as on projects with only a handful of cable elements.
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The best part is that it only takes one clever trick to transform any cable into a super cable. This trick involves “ghost stitches”.
Intrigued? Let’s see how this method works step by step.
There are three main stages of applying this method to a cable pattern: (1) adding the ghost stitches, (2) working in a cable pattern, and (3) removing the ghost stitches.
The term “ghost stitches” might seem scary, but in reality, these are ordinary purl stitches – one stitch at each side of each column of stitches that are crossed to form a cable.
For example, to turn a simple 2×2 cable into a super cable, we add 4 extra purl stitches.
I call them ghosts because we don’t really see them, and we get rid of them as soon as the cable is finished. We need these stitches to prop the cable and keep it over the surface of the fabric no matter what.
Adding ghost stitches means that the number of stitches in a cable will be bigger than the original number of stitches on our needles.
It also means that we will need to use a cable needle to cross the cables even if we can do without a cable needle in other cable-crossing situations.
Now, that we understand the logic behind this method, let’s take a closer look at each stage of the process.
ADDING THE GHOST STITCHES
We do it in the first right side row (or first round) of the cable pattern. It could be the row after a border, the very first row of the project as is the case in my swatch.
STEP 1
Work to the stitches that will be crossed to make a cable.
For example, my swatch will feature a 2×2 cable worked over the central 4 stitches with 4 stitches worked in reverse stockinette stitch pattern at each side of the cable. That’s why I stopped once I purled the first 4 stitches in the first row.
STEP 2
Make a reverse yarn over by bringing the yarn to the back of the work, and over the right needle.
STEP 3
Knit the first group of stitches that will form the cable. In my swatch, it means knitting 2 stitches.
STEP 4
Make another reverse yarn over.
STEP 5
Knit the stitches of the next part of the cable.
STEP 6
Make a reverse yarn over.
If the cable that you are making consists of more than two columns of stitches, repeat steps 5 and 6 again until you make one reverse yarn over between each group of cable stitches with a reverse yarn over at each side of the cable.
Work all stitches to the end of the row. As these stitches are worked in the reverse stockinette pattern in my swatch, I simply purl the last 4 stitches.
NEXT ROW
In this row, we’ll knit the yarn overs at the sides of the cable, and we’ll knit each yarn over inside the cable through the front and the back loop turning this yarn over into two purl stitches on the right side of the fabric.
STEP 1A
Work all stitches to the first yarn over.
STEP 2A
Knit this yarn over, as usual, through the front loop. This will result in a twisted stitch that won’t add a hole to our beautiful super cable.
STEP 3A
Work the stitches of the first group. Stop when you get to the next yarn over.
STEP 4A
Knit this yarn over through the front loop, but don’t slip it off the left needle just yet.
With the yarn at the back of the work, insert the tip of the right needle into this yarn over again, but this time, go from right to left.
Wrap the tip of the right needle with the yarn, and pull the wrap through knitting another stitch from the same yarn over.
STEP 5A
Work the stitches of the next section of the cable. Stop when you get to the next yarn over.
If you make a cable formed by more than two columns of stitches, work steps 4a and 5a again until you reach the yarn over at the other side of the cable.
STEP 6A
Knit the last yarn over through the front loop, just as we did in step 2a.
If you work in the round, purl the yarn overs in steps 2a and 6a, and purl into the front and the back loop of a yarn over in step 4a.
Then work all stitches to the end of the row.
MAKING THE CABLE
There won’t be anything unusual in this step. We simply work all stitches in pattern until it is time to cross the cable. As to the ghost stitches, we purl them on the right side of the fabric and knit them in all wrong-side rows.
When we cross the cable, we should remember that the ghost stitches are part of the cable, and we cross them together with the stitches that form the cable.
Here’s how it happens in our example.
STEP 1B
Work to the first ghost stitch. This will be the purl stitch that stands next to the first stitch of the cable.
STEP 2B
Slip the ghost stitch + the first group of stitches that form the cable + the next ghost stitch to a cable needle.
If you make a complicated cable with several simultaneous crosses, slip the next group of ghost stitch + stitches of the cable + ghost stitch to another cable needle.
STEP 3B
Because the cable in my swatch has a slant to the left, I bring the cable needle to the front of the work.
Follow the instructions in your pattern if the cable in your project has a different structure.
STEP 4B
Work the stitches of the next cable-forming group. Purl the ghost stitch, knit the stitches of the cable and purl the next ghost stitch.
STEP 5B
Work stitches from the cable needle in pattern. In my swatch, the pattern is “purl 1, knit 2, purl 1”.
Follow the same logic if you work in a more intricate cable pattern.
Continue to work stitches of the cable (including the ghost stitches) in pattern, crossing them whenever required.
When the cable pattern is finished, it is time for the last stage of making super cables.
REMOVING THE GHOST STITCHES
This stage happens in the last right-side row of the cable pattern. You can also combine this row with the bind-off row, and bind off stitches one by one as you get rid of the ghost stitches.
STEP 1C
Work to the ghost stitch at the right side of the cable.
STEP 2C
Knit two stitches together – the first stitch of the cable and the ghost stitch.
If you make a 1×1 cable, work a double vertical decrease in this step, and skip the next step.
STEP 3C
Work to the last stitch of the first group of stitches that form the cable. This spot will be one stitch before the next ghost stitch.
Because the first group of stitches in the cable in my swatch is made of only two stitches, I proceed to the next decrease right away. If the cable in your project is wider, you will need to work one or more stitches before you get to the last stitch of this group of cable-forming stitches.
Insert the tip of the right needle from left to right into the first stitch on the left needle and slip this stitch knitwise to the right needle.
Return this stitch to the left needle (this time, do it purlwise, without twisting the stitch), and knit it together with the next stitch (the ghost stitch) through the back loop.
Repeat steps 2c and 3c until you get rid of all ghost stitches in the cable.
Finish the row, and take a moment to marvel at the amazing texture of the super cable.
Because we use ghost stitches, these cables take up more yarn, especially when we make an Aran sweater or some other project with lots of cables.
HERE’S A VIDEO TUTORIAL THAT SHOWS EVERY STEP
But it is totally worth it – the cables formed by this method are not just beautifully embossed, they also look great on the wrong side of the work, and they don’t have those ugly elongated stitches at the sides of each cross. The mighty ghost stitches took care of that imperfection as well.
SAVE IT FOR LATER:
This and 36 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #7.
