We’ve already discussed several ways to make cables without a cable needle. I’ve been using the third way described in that tutorial for years because it is the fastest and the simplest way to cross stitches.
But this method has a few downsides – it works best when we hold the working yarn in our left hand, it is a bit scary because we keep stitches loose for a few moments, and it gets even scarier when we make wider cables.
Fortunately, there is an improved way to make cables that solves all these issues. It works great for any knitting style, it is not as scary, and we can use it to safely cross cables of any width. And yes, we do it without using a cable needle or any other special tool.
Let’s see how this amazing technique works step by step.
If you prefer to learn from a video, watch it below:
LEFT-SLANTING CABLE
Work to the first stitch of the future cable and bring the working yarn to the back of the work.
STEP 1
Insert the tip of the right needle from right to left into the stitches that make up the second part of the cable. Do it so that the right needle is at the back of the left needle and don’t take any of the stitches off the left needle yet.
In my swatch, the cables are made of four stitches – two groups of two stitches. As you see in the photo above, I inserted the right needle into the second pair of stitches on the left needle.
STEP 2
With your right thumb, press the fabric right underneath the first group of stitches to the front of the right needle.
Hold the fabric pressed to the right needle as you carefully take the left needle out of the both groups of stitches that will form the cable.
There are two reasons why we need to press the fabric below the first group of stitches. We do it to protect the stitches from unravelling while, at the same time, keeping them visible and easy to pick up in the next step.
STEP 3
Use the tip of the left needle to pick up the open stitches of the first group one by one starting with the first stitch at the left side of the group.
Because we press the bottom of the stitches to the needle, the stitches stay in the correct orientation and won’t be twisted after we pick them up.
Now, that the stitches are safely sitting on the left needle, there is no need to press the fabric below them to the right needle. Relax your right thumb and move on to the next step.
STEP 4
Slip the stitches of the second group from the right needle to the left needle. Do it purlwise, without twisting the stitches.
If the cable is wide, the stitches will be quite tight when crossed. To loosen them up, pull the right needle to the back stretching the fabric between the two groups of stitches.
Then pull it to the right increasing the space between the two parts of the cable even more.
This little trick will make it easier for you to slip the stitches to the left needle even when the cable is very wide.
As you see, we crossed the stitches even before we knitted them. In the final step of this technique, we’ll work these stitches to make a lovely neat cable.
STEP 5
Work the stitches of the cable as instructed in the pattern you follow.
The cable in my swatch is made of two groups of knit stitches, so I simply knitted four stitches of the cable. If the cable that you are making has purl stitches in one of the groups, then purl those stitches.
RIGHT-SLANTING CABLE
Just as we did when we made a left-slanting cable, we start by working to the first stitch of the cable. Then we bring the working yarn to the back of the work.
STEP 1
Insert the tip of the right needle from right to left into the stitches of the second part of the cable, but, this time, do it so that the right needle stays at the front of the left needle.
STEP 2
With your right index finger, press the fabric right underneath the first group of stitches to the back of the right needle.
Hold the fabric pressed to the right needle as you carefully take the left needle out of both groups of stitches.
STEP 3
Pick up the open stitches with the tip of the left needle.
STEP 4
Slip the stitches of the second group from the right needle to the left needle.
If necessary, pull the right needle to the front first to stretch the fabric between the two groups of stitches. Then pull it to the right to increase the space between two parts of the cable even more.
STEP 5
The stitches are crossed and all we have to do now is to work them in pattern.
In my swatch, the cable is simple, so I knitted all four stitches of the cable. If you follow a fancier cable pattern, you might need to purl some of those stitches or even work them in a seed stitch or some other stitch pattern.
This method is not just quick and easy. It also keeps the cables neat. Because we cross the stitches before we work them, there are no long strands at the sides of the cable.
There is still a hole at each side of the cross, but those holes are small and almost invisible even when the fabric is stretched. That is a great bonus for tight-fitting projects like hats, mittens and close-fitting sweaters.
SAVE IT FOR LATER:
This and 41 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #6.
