Shifted Rib Stitch

What happens when we shift “knit 2, purl 2” ribbing by one stitch in every row or round?

We form a texture with embossed diagonal lines and the properties that we all love so much in ribbing – the fabric is reversible and it does not curl at the sides.

It is a perfect stitch pattern to use when you knit a scarf, a blanket, or a dishcloth. And it also works great for hats, sweaters, cardigans, and even socks.

The pattern repeat is made up of 4 stitches and 4 rows, and it has a simple logic that will help you memorize this stitch. I explain this logic in this section.

But before we get to that section, first, let’s see how this stitch is built row by row.

THIS STITCH IN A NUTSHELL

• Level of difficulty – Easy
• Reversible? Yes
• Textured? Yes
• Best for – Scarves, shawls, cowls, blankets, dishcloths, hats, sweaters
• Stitch multiple – 4 stitches
• Row multiple – 4 rows / rounds

VIDEO TUTORIAL
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WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS

HOW TO KNIT SHIFTED RIBBING BACK AND FORTH

Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches.

The side edges of this stitch have a “bumpy” texture. They don’t curl, but they don’t look neat.

If you’d like to give the side edges of your project a special treatment, use slip-stitch selvedges, or any other way to make neat side edges. Some of these ways are described in the “Neat Side Edges” book.

The texture of shifted ribbing looks the same on both sides of the fabric. There is no right or wrong side, but to make it easier for you to keep track of the pattern rows, I have marked rows as “right side” or “wrong side” in the written instructions.

Row 1 (right side): [ knit 2, purl 2 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the row.

Row 2 (wrong side): [ knit 1, purl 2, knit 1 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the row.

Row 3 (right side): [ purl 2, knit 2 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the row.

Row 4 (wrong side): [ purl 1, knit 2, purl 1 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the row.

That’s it. Repeat rows 1 – 4 to form the pattern.

To keep the top edge of the fabric as textured as the fabric itself, bind off all stitches in pattern.

HOW TO EASILY REMEMBER THE PATTERN REPEAT

Because this stitch is based on “knit 2, purl 2” ribbing, we always repeat a sequence of “knit 2, purl 2”.

But because this ribbing is shifted by one stitch in every row, we don’t start every row by knitting two stitches.

We start every right-side (odd-numbered) row by knitting or purling two stitches, and we start every wrong-side (even-numbered) row by knitting or purling one stitch.

How do we know how to start the next row? The first stitch is always worked the way it looks. If it is a knit, we knit it. If it is a purl, we purl it.

This means that when we are about to work a right-side row and the first stitch looks like a knit, we knit 2 and purl 2. If the first stitch is a purl, we purl 2 and knit 2.

When we are about to start a wrong-side row and the first stitch is a knit, we knit 1, then repeat a sequence of purl 2, knit 2. If the first stitch looks like a purl, we purl 1, then alternate knit 2 and purl 2 to the last stitch of the row, and we purl the last stitch.

To make this approach work, it is important to know where the right side of the fabric is. It is not easy when the texture is reversible.

That’s where a stitch marker is very helpful. Attach a stitch marker to the right side of the fabric. It will tell you whether you are about to start a right-side or a wrong-side row every time you turn the work.

HOW TO KNIT SHIFTED RIBBING IN THE ROUND

To add this pattern to a seamless project, cast on a multiple of 4 stitches.

Arrange stitches for working in the round on double-pointed needles, two circular needles, or one circular needle (with or without using the magic loop method).

Join stitches in a circle and place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Round 1: [ knit 2, purl 2 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the round.

Round 2: [ purl 1, knit 2, purl 1 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the round.

Round 3: [ purl 2, knit 2 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the round.

Round 4: [ knit 1, purl 2, knit 1 ], repeat the brackets to the end of the round.

Repeat rounds 1 – 4 to form the pattern.

Thanks to the shift in the pattern, the jog that is often quite obvious in many stitch patterns is almost non-existent in shifted ribbing. When we add this stitch to hats, socks, and other seamless projects, most people won’t be able to tell where the beginning of the round is.

VARIATION

To stretch this stitch pattern vertically, knit the knits and purl the purls in every even-numbered row or round, and shift the pattern by one stitch in every other row or round.

The pattern repeat will extend to 8 rows instead of 4, and your shifted ribbing pattern will turn into diagonal rib.

CHART

If you are not sure how to read a knitting chart, here’s a guide for beginners that explains what knitting charts mean, how to understand the symbols, why there is a red frame in a chart, and how to read lace, cable, or any other knitting chart when knitting back and forth or in the round.

GIVE IT A TRY!

Take any yarn and needles in a size recommended for this yarn and cast on 8 stitches.

Follow instructions for Row 1, Row 2, Row 3 and Row 4 of the pattern until you make 12 rows.

Look at the texture of your swatch, stretch it to see how elastic it is, and notice the beauty of the diagonal lines.

What is the first project that comes to mind? When you submit your choice in the fully anonymous poll below, you will see what other knitters picked.

PATTERN CARD

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