If you are after a simple way to cast on stitches for “knit 1, purl 1” ribbing, here’s a simple trick that allows us to turn the regular long-tail cast-on edge into an edge that looks very much like the one formed by the tubular cast-on method.
When we use the “faux tubular cast on”, we don’t end up with a twisted edge, and we don’t even need to work setup rows or rounds. The rounded edge is formed by itself right after we cast on stitches.
This method is so easy that even newer knitters can form this lovely edge without much effort. And the process is the same for casting on stitches for projects worked flat, and ones worked in the round.
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All it takes is three simple steps.
STEP 1
Use the long-tail cast-on method to cast on half of the stitches you need for your project, plus one stitch.
If your pattern calls for an odd number of stitches, round that number down to the closest even number, divide it in half, and add one stitch.
For example, if you need 15 stitches, round this number down to 14, then 14 / 2 + 1 = 8 stitches to cast on.
If you plan to knit ribbing in the round, don’t add an extra stitch.
Simply cast on half of the stitches that you need for your project. It is highly unlikely that the pattern will call for an odd number of stitches, so you won’t need to make any additional calculations. Easy!
I want to make a swatch on 10 stitches, and I will knit back and forth, so I used the long-tail method to cast on 10 / 2 + 1 = 6 stitches.
If I were to work in the round, I would have cast on 10 / 2 = 5 stitches.
If you cast on stitches for a project worked back and forth, turn your work. If you start a seamless project, arrange the stitches for working in the round.
Unlike an edge formed by the “true” tubular cast-on method, this edge won’t get twisted and messy when you distribute stitches between double-pointed or circular needles. Another benefit of the “faux” tubular cast on.
STEP 2
Bring the yarn to the front of the work and purl one stitch.
That’s it. Easy-peasy.
STEP 3
Bring the yarn to the back of the work, and move the tip of the right needle down and to the back of the cast-on edge.
Wrap the right needle with the yarn as we do when we knit a stitch.
Pull this yarn wrap from under the cast-on edge to the front of the work.
Make sure the newly minted stitch is not too loose. Otherwise, the edge will get a bit messy. To avoid that, pull the working yarn gently to tighten this stitch.
Now repeat steps 2 and 3 until you get to the last stitch of the row (if you work back and forth), or until you get to the end of the round (if you’re making a seamless project).
If you are making a project worked flat, purl the last stitch.
Count your stitches. If you work in the round, the number of stitches sitting on your needles should be the same as the number stated in the pattern.
If you work back and forth, you will end up with an odd number of stitches. If it is the number you need, great. Turn the work and repeat the sequence of “knit 1, purl 1”.
If your pattern calls for an even number of stitches, purl two stitches together at the end of the first row.
It is exactly what I did to bring the number of stitches in my swatch to the 10 stitches I need.
As you work a few rows or rounds, you will see that this “faux tubular cast on” method forms a beautiful edge that rolls from the front of the fabric to its back, all without much effort on your part.
This edge looks almost the same as the edge formed by the tubular cast-on method, but this edge is not as stretchy.
It does have some amount of elasticity, and it keeps its shape remarkably well. There is very little chance that this edge will stretch out.
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It makes it a great choice for most necklines, cuffs, bottom bands, and bands of loosely fitting hats. But if you make a band for a close-fitting turtleneck or for top-down socks, tubular cast on will be a better option.
This and 26 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #9.
