To make sure the stitches that we pick up from an edge of the fabric are evenly spaced, we need to divide the edge into a number of sections and pick up a certain number of stitches from each section. We discussed this approach over here.
It is a reliable method, but it requires quite a bit of preparation that becomes especially tedious when we need to pick up stitches from a long edge, like the front of a cardigan.
Another approach is to use a formula that is based on the stitch pattern of the fabric that forms the edge. For example, to pick up stitches from a vertical side of a stockinette fabric, we should pick up one stitch from each row of the fabric three times, then skip one row.
Because we use all kinds of stitch patterns to make our projects, this way is not helpful in many cases.
On top of that, both of these methods often result in picked-up stitches that form tiny holes along the edge. It happens because we are limited by the number of stitches that we should pick up from a certain section of the edge.
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Fortunately, there is a simple solution that removes all limitations and allows us to form a neat, evenly spaced line of picked-up stitches without any preparation at all.
All it takes is three simple steps.
STEP 1
As promised, there is no preparation necessary. We get our hands dirty (metaphorically speaking) and start to pick up stitches right away.
It is easier to pick up stitches with a knitting needle that is two or three sizes smaller than the needles that you used to make a project, but if you don’t have a needle like that, feel free to use the same knitting needles that formed the edge of your project.
Whatever size of the needles you choose to use, take one knitting needle in your right hand and insert it from front to back into a spot that is below a right-hand corner of a cast-on or a bind-off edge if you pick up stitches from a horizontal edge.
If you pick up stitches from a vertical edge, insert the needle from front to back into a spot that is one row below the right-hand side corner of the side edge of the fabric.
To minimize the ridge at the back of the vertical edge, insert the needle into a spot that is one strand (not one stitch) below the edge.
Fold the working yarn, leaving a small tail, and place that fold on the knitting needle.
Pull the yarn through the fabric, and—voila—here’s our first picked-up stitch.
Then insert the needle from front to back into the next spot. In most cases, this spot will be one stitch or one row to the left of the previous spot.
Wrap the needle with the yarn the same way as we do when we knit a stitch, and pull this yarn wrap through the fabric, forming another picked-up stitch.
If you pick up stitches from a curve (like an armhole or a neckline), it will be the spot that is so close to the previous spot that it does not form a hole.
Remember that right now we are not worried about the number of stitches that we pick up. The only thing that we care about in this step is that the picked-up stitches are visually evenly spaced, and that none of those stitches forms a hole in the fabric.
With that in mind, continue to pick up stitches to the very end of the edge.
At this point, it doesn’t really matter how many stitches we picked up. We’ll take care of the numbers in the next step.
STEP 2
Now that we made a set of even, hole-free stitches, let’s count them. Count every stitch that you picked up and write that number down.
In my swatch, this number is 23.
Then look at the number of stitches that you were supposed to pick up from that edge according to the pattern instructions. Write that number next to the first number.
The band on my swatch should be made on 20 stitches.
To figure out how many additional stitches we picked up, let’s subtract the second number from the first one and write the result down.
The next task is to decrease those additional stitches evenly across the edge. That’s what we’ll do in the next step.
STEP 3
This step starts with another basic calculation.
If you picked up stitches for a neckband or some other part of the project that is worked in the round, divide the number of stitches that you should pick up according to the pattern by the number of additional stitches that we determined in the previous step.
If you pick up stitches for a band or a part of the project that will be worked flat, divide the number of picked-up stitches recommended in the pattern by the number of additional stitches plus one.
If you wonder where the “plus one” comes from, take a look at this tutorial.
Round the result of the previous calculation and subtract one stitch from it.
This is the number of stitches that we should knit or purl before we make a decrease in the first row or round.
For example, to bring the number of stitches that I picked up to the number of stitches I actually need for the band, I need to work four stitches before I work two stitches together.
If you used a smaller needle when you picked up stitches, take a needle in a proper size in your right hand as you start to work the first row or round.
As you see, I work the first row of the band in stockinette stitch. It is not a coincidence. Stockinette stitch makes it easy to make decreases without worrying about setting up a certain stitch pattern.
Plus, it also makes a neat transition between the main fabric of the project and the part worked on the picked-up stitches.
This is one of those little things that make a project look well-finished, and if it also makes our life easier when we decrease stitches, it is clearly a huge bonus.
When you come close to the end of the first row or round, count the stitches again. Because we rounded the result of our second calculation, it is possible that you will need to squeeze in an extra decrease or spread the last couple of decreases to avoid an unnecessary decrease.
Once you finish the first row or round, you will have the number of stitches that is recommended by the pattern, and you’ll be all set for making a beautifully neat band or another part of your project.
HERE’S A VIDEO TUTORIAL THAT SHOWS EVERY STEP
The best thing about this simple three-step approach is that it can be applied to all edges and all stitch patterns. And we get amazing results without any need to fiddle with pins and markers.
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This and 31 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #8.
