Just as the long-tail cast-on method is reliable in forming sturdy, moderately elastic edges, it works remarkably well for making edges with open stitches, similar to the edges created by the provisional cast on.
When we use the long-tail cast on for that purpose, the open stitches are not just reserved for future use. They are all uniform, and they have the same size as the stitches in the main fabric of the project.
One of the features of using the long-tail cast-on method instead of the provisional cast on is that the open stitches are well secured.
It is a good thing because we don’t need to worry that the stitches will come loose before we are ready to work with them. But it is also a not-so-good thing because it could be challenging to release those stitches when the time comes to pick them up.
This is when a simple trick that I’ve recently discovered makes all the difference. Picking up stitches becomes very easy when the scrap yarn that we use is much thinner than the working yarn.
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Let’s see how this approach to the long-tail provisional cast on works step by step.
STEP 1. SETUP
Find a yarn that is much thinner than the yarn that you plan to use to make your project.
For example, to cast on stitches for my swatch, I’ll use yarn in a medium weight paired with the chunky yarn that I will use to make the swatch.
If the main yarn is already quite thin, use a piece of sewing thread as the scrap yarn.
Make sure the colour of the scrap yarn (or thread) is very different than the colour of the working yarn. This way, we’ll clearly see the open stitches when the time comes to pick them up from the scrap yarn.
There is no need to cut a piece of the scrap yarn. You can use it directly from the ball, just make sure that the piece that you have is at least three times as long as the future cast on edge.
Align the scrap yarn with the working yarn, and hold both strands along with the knitting needle in your right hand.
Place the scrap yarn on your left thumb and the main yarn on your left index finger, and hold both strands with the rest of your left fingers.
It is very important to place the scrap yarn on your left thumb, and not on your left index finger.
STEP 2. FORMING NEW STITCHES
We cast on stitches in exactly the same way as we do when we use the long-tail cast-on method.
2.1. First, we insert the tip of the needle from the bottom up into the loop formed by the scrap yarn around the left thumb.
2.2. Then we pick the working yarn from right to left and pull it through the loop.
2.3. Finally, we take the left thumb out of the loop, put it into the space between the working yarn and the scrap yarn, and stretch the thumb and the index finger to pull the strands apart and tighten the bottom of the newly formed stitch.
Repeat steps 2.1 through 2.3 until you cast on as many stitches as you need for your project. Then cut the scrap yarn leaving a medium-sized tail.
There is no need to secure the scrap yarn. Let the tails simply hang at the sides of the cast-on edge waiting for the time when we need to pick up the open stitches.
If you plan to make a seamless project, arrange the stitches for working in the round. If you make a piece worked flat, turn your work. Follow the pattern instructions for the first row or round of your project.
My swatch will feature plain stockinette stitch, so I turned the work and started to knit stitches one by one.
STEP 3. RETRIEVING THE OPEN STITCHES
When the pattern tells you to pick up stitches from the scrap yarn, place the project so that the right side of the fabric is facing you and the cast on edge is at the top.
Take an empty knitting needle in your left hand and insert it from front to back into the twisted half-stitch at the left-hand side of the cast-on edge.
Cut the yarn tail at that side of the fabric very close to the stitch and take the scrap yarn out of that half-stitch.
Insert the needle from front to back into the next stitch at the left-hand side of the edge.
Undo the scrap yarn to release this stitch.
Repeat until you pick up all stitches. When you feel that the scrap yarn tail gets too long, cut it close to the fabric. It is not our goal to preserve the scrap yarn. Our goal is to pick up all open stitches as quick and efficient as possible.
When you have all open stitches sitting on your knitting needle, you will see that the number of picked-up stitches is the same as the number of stitches that you cast on.
Now we can easily use these open stitches to make another section of our project.
In most cases, the new section starts with a right-side row, and because we picked up stitches from left to right, we have the tip of the left needle at the right-hand side of the fabric all set for working a right-side row.
If the section of your project made with the picked-up stitches starts with a wrong-side row, make sure the wrong side of the fabric is facing you when you pick up open stitches from the scrap yarn. The first strand at the left-hand side of the edge will be the yarn tail. Ignore it, and insert the needle from front to back into the first full stitch.
As you work a few rows or rounds, you will notice that the row or round of the picked-up stitches blends in perfectly with the rest of the fabric. The stitches are not looser or tighter than the stitches around them.
To make that happen, we didn’t have to use a crochet hook or any other special tool, and we didn’t even need to learn a new cast-on method. The long-tail cast on did a perfect job of reserving the open stitches for us.
Many thanks to Fausta for sending me a link to a short Instagram video by @strick_zeit_ That video reminded me of this interesting way to use the long-tail cast-on method to make a provisional cast on.
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This and 31 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #8.
