There are several methods that allow us to join vertical button bands to our projects as we knit, without any sewing. In this tutorial, we’ll discuss a way that forms a flat and elastic join that looks the same on both sides of the work.
It is a perfect solution not just for cardigans and jackets, but also for modular blankets, wraps and other reversible projects.
This method works best when the side edges of the project are decorated with slip-stitch selvedges. To make the edges of the swatches featured in the photos, I slipped the first stitch and purled the last stitch of every row.
To make it easier for you to see how the band is attached to the project, I used a yarn in a contrasting colour to make the swatch that represents the main fabric.
Now, that we’ve sorted out these details, let’s see how this method works step by step.
If you are a visual learner, watch every step described below in a video tutorial:
STEP 1
Use any cast on method you like to cast on the number of stitches you need for the button band plus one extra stitch. It will be the “joining stitch”. We’ll use it to connect the band to the project.
If you want to make the edge of the band neater, add one more stitch. We’ll treat this stitch as a selvedge.
The mock button band shown in this tutorial was planned to be three stitches wide, so I cast on 3 stitches for the band + 1 selvedge stitch + 1 stitch for joining the band to the main fabric = 5 stitches.
Align the cast on stitches with the first row of the project so that the needle with the stitches is at the left side of the side edge of the fabric. If you attach the band to the right edge of the project, turn the project so that its wrong side is facing you.
If you are joining the band to the left edge of the project, the fabric will lie with its right side up.
STEP 2 – JOINING ROW
With the yarn at the back of the work, insert the tip of the right needle under both legs of the first selvedge stitch at the edge of the project.
Insert the right needle from right to left into the first stitch of the band, take the left needle out, slipping the stitch to the right needle.
With the tip of the left needle, pass both legs of the selvedge stitch over the slipped stitch and off the right needle.
Work the rest of the stitches of the band in the stitch pattern of your choice.
Traditionally, bands are made in reversible non-curling stitch patterns like ribbing or garter stitch. I’ll work the stitches of my band in seed stitch (also known as “moss stitch” in the UK), and I’ll purl the last stitch to make the edge neater.
STEP 3 – PLAIN ROW
In this row, we’ll work only with the stitches of the band without involving the fabric of the main project.
Because I treat the edge stitch of my band as a selvedge, I’ll slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn at the back of the work.
Then work the rest of the stitches of the band in the stitch pattern of your choice until you get to the last stitch of the row – the “joining stitch”.
Purl the last stitch.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 alternating the “joining row” with the “plain row” until you join every selvedge stitch of the project to every two rows of the band. Finish with the “joining row”.
The “seam” has a lovely decorative look when the band is made in a different colour, and it is almost invisible when both the project and the band are knitted in the same colour.
If you want to use this method to attach a band to a project that has no selvedge stitches, join every two rows of the band to every other edge stitch of the fabric. That means that every time you work step 1, you would skip one edge stitch of the main fabric and insert the tip pf the right needle under two legs of every other edge stitch.
The join won’t be as clean as the result we get when we work with slip-stitch selvedges, but the band will be securely attached to the project without any additional bulk or unpleasant-looking wrong side of the work.
SAVE IT FOR LATER:
This and 41 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #6.