Let’s take a look at a cast on method that is based on i-cord but forms an edge that looks more like a braid than a cord.
This happens because we reduce the width of the i-cord to two stitches, and this little tweak completely changes the outcome.
Instead of an i-cord, we see a set of braids that decorate every facet of the edge—one braid at the front, one at the back, and one at the bottom of the edge.
WATCH EVERY STEP IN THIS VIDEO TUTORIAL
(if you don’t see the video, turn off the ad blocker in your browser)
This structure makes this edge fully reversible and very neat. It looks great on scarves, blankets, sweaters, cardigans, and all other projects that do not require highly elastic edges.
Here’s how this simple method works step by step.
We start by casting on two stitches that will form the braid at the cast on edge. Do it by using knitted cast on, cable cast on, or any other cast on method that forms a sturdy cast on edge.
To get those initial stitches on my needles, I used the long-tail cast on method.
Arrange the work so that the tip of the needle is pointing to the right and the working yarn is at the right side of the newly-minted stitches.
Take the needle with the stitches in your left hand, and an empty needle in your right hand.
STEP 1
Move the working yarn to the back of the work, and bring it over the right needle to form a reverse yarn over.
This step could feel a bit awkward when we do it for the first time because the right needle is not connected to the work yet and the needles are not balanced.
To make it easier, place the right needle on the working yarn and move the yarn over the top of the needle and to its front.
STEP 2
Bring the yarn to the back of the work and knit both stitches sitting on the left needle.
Keep an eye on the yarn over. Make sure you don’t lose it after you knit the first stitch of the braid.
STEP 3
Slip two stitches from the right needle to the left needle.
To avoid twisting these stitches, insert the tip of the left needle into each stitch from left to right, and then move the right needle out of that stitch leaving it on the left needle.
Repeat these three steps until the right needle holds the number of stitches that you need for your project minus one stitch, and two stitches of the braid are on the left needle.
For example, to cast on 8 stitches for my swatch I stop when I have 7 stitches on my right needle and 2 stitches on my left needle.
LAST STEP
With the working yarn at the back of the work, insert the tip of the right needle from right to left into the second stitch on the left needle.
Pass this stitch over the first stitch and off the left needle.
Slip the remaining stitch to the right needle. Do it purlwise, without twisting the stitch.
Now the number of stitches on the right needle is the number we need for the project, so we can turn the needle and work the first row as instructed in the pattern.
To show you how this cast on edge looks next to a textured pattern, I worked my swatch in seed stitch (known as “moss stitch” in the UK).
To make sure none of the stitches form a hole in the first row of the project, knit or purl each stitch as usual through the front loop.
HERE’S A VIDEO TUTORIAL THAT SHOWS EVERY STEP
If the pattern instructions include twisted stitches worked through the back loop, replace those stitches with regular knits and purls as you work the first row.
To make a bind off edge that looks exactly the same as this cast on edge, use the braided bind off method.
If you like to add matching cast on and bind off edges to your project, consider getting a copy of the “Matching Cast Ons and Bind Offs” book.
SAVE IT FOR LATER
This and 36 other in-depth tutorials are part of Knitting Collection #7.
